I. The Products

• Introduction
  • Grooming Fashions and Reactions
• Scope of Report
  • Five Product Categories
  • Gender vs. Unisex
  • "Crossover" Use of Grooming Products
  • Retail Defined
  • Upjohn's Rogaine Covered in Report
  • Products Not Included
• Fragrance Products
  • Historical Note
  • Fragrance Forms
  • Fine, Mass, and Bridge Fragrances
  • Ingredients
  • Fragrance Families
  • Fragrance Notes
  • Packaging and Labeling
  • Government Regulation
• Shaving Products
  • Historical Note
  • Ingredients
  • Three Segments
  • Aftershave
  • Preshave
  • Shaving Cream Product Forms and Ingredients
  • Packaging and Labeling
  • Government Regulation of CFCs and VOCs
• Deodorant Products
  • Historical Note
  • Product Forms
  • Ingredients
  • Packaging and Labeling
  • Government Regulation
• Haircare Products
  • Historical Note
  • Three Segments
  • Haircoloring Products
  • Haircoloring Ingredients
  • Haircoloring Product Forms
  • Hairstyling Products
  • Hairstyling Ingredients
  • Hairstyling Product Forms
  • Thinning Hair Products
  • Thinning Hair Product Ingredients
  • Thinning Hair Product Forms
  • Packaging and Labeling
  • Government Regulation
  • Haircoloring Irritation Warning and Cancer Scare
  • Eliminating Hairspray VOCs
  • Upjohn Fights for OTC Status
  • OTC Thinning Hair Products: Patrolling the Borders
• Skincare Products
  • Historical Note
  • Space-Age Skincare
  • Retinoids to Alpha-Hydroxy Acids: The Next Generation
  • Ingredients
  • Product Forms
  • Packaging and Labeling
  • Government Regulation
  • The AHA Controversy
  • Truth in Skincare Advertising

II. The Market

• [Graphic] Estimated Retail Dollar Sales of Men's Grooming Market by Product Category: 1990 vs. 1994
• Market Size and Growth
  • Methodology for Sales Estimates
  • Retail Sales Top $2.7 Billion in 1994
  • [Table] Change in Retail Dollar Volume: Men's Grooming Market (1990-1994)
  • Growth Picks Up in Mid-1990s
  • Fragrance Products Are No. 1 in Sales
  • Shaving in Second Place, But Sales Stagnant
  • Deodorant Sales Also Stagnant
  • Haircare Category Is Shifting
  • Skincare Is Last, But Growing
  • [Table] Estimated Retail Dollar Sales by Product Category: Men's Grooming Market (1990-1994)
• Factors in Market Growth
  • Population and Economy Point to Modest Growth
  • [Table] Male Population Trends by Age Group: 1990-2000
  • Aging of Population Is Qualified Negative
  • Boomers Are Good for Business
  • Receptivity of Generation X Might Expand Market
  • Unmarried Men Form Growing Pool of Customers
  • Urban Gay Males Are Most Promising Customers
  • Leading Mass Merchandisers Spur Market
  • Naturally Profitable Products
  • Products with Sunscreen Attract More Customers
  • Fragrance: Incremental Growth Only
  • The Shaving Market: Mature But Still Lively
  • Deodorants: A War Over Market Share
  • Haircare: An Erratic Performer
  • Skincare: Still the Sleeping Giant
  • [Graphic] Projected Retail Dollar Sales of Men's Grooming Market: 1995-1999
• Projected Market Growth
  • Retail Sales to Reach $3.2 Billion in 1999
  • Growth Rate Highest for Fragrance and Skincare
  • [Table] Projected Growth in Retail Dollar Sales by Product Category: Men's Grooming Market (1995-1999)
• Market Composition: By Product Category
  • Fragrance Leads in Retail Dollar Share
  • [Graphic] Retail Dollar Share by Product Category: Men's Grooming Market (1994)
  • Fragrance Gains in Retail Dollar Share
  • [Table] Retail Dollar Share by Product Category: Men's Grooming Market (1990 vs. 1994)
  • Fragrance Accounts for Most Overall Sales Growth
  • [Table] Retail Dollar Growth by Product Category: Men's Grooming Market (1990-1994)
  • Aftershave, Shaving Cream Dominate Mass-Market Shaving Product Sales
  • [Graphic] Share of Retail Sales in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores: Men's Shaving Product Segments
  • Haircoloring, Hairstyling Dominate Mass-Market Haircare Sales
  • [Graphic] Share of Retail Sales in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores: Men's Haircare Product Segments
• Market Composition: By Retail Outlet
  • Prestige Outlets Lead in Overall Revenues
  • Department Stores Lead in Fragrance
  • Shaving Sales Evenly Distributed Among Mass-Market Outlets
  • Food Stores Hold Lead in Deodorant
  • Drugstores Lead in Haircare, Haircoloring
  • Department Stores Dominate in Skincare
• Market Composition: By Region and Season
  • Retail Sales by Region
  • [Table] Male Users of Grooming Products: By Region and by Product Type (1993)
  • Retail Sales by Season
  • [Table] Top Sales Months for Selected Product Categories and Segments

III. The Marketers

• The Marketers
  • Over 200 Men's Grooming Marketers
  • The Eight Men's Grooming Giants
  • [Table] The Men's Grooming Giants: Principle Product Categories
  • Areas of Concentration Among the Top Eight
  • Eight Second-Tier Players
  • Other Marketers
  • [Chart] Leading Marketers and Brands: Men's Grooming Products
  • [Chart] Second-Tier Marketers and Brands: Men's Grooming Products
  • [Chart] Tertiary and Selected Minor Marketers and Brands: The Men's Grooming Market
• Marketer and Brand Share: Men's Fragrance
  • Mass-Market Old Spice, Stetson Hold Lead Among Fragrance Brands
  • [Table] Top Ten Men's Fragrances: By Annual Sales (1991-1993)
  • Designer Brands Drakkar Noir, Eternity, and Obsession Form Second Tier
  • Klein, Lauren Are Tops in Department Stores
  • [Table] Leading Department Store Men's Fragrances: By Market Share (1990-1993)
• Marketer and Brand Share: Shaving Products
  • Estimates Based on Towne-Oller Tracking
  • S.C. Johnson Is Tops in Shaving
  • [Table] Share of Retail Sales in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores: By Shaving Product Segment (Year Ending November 1994)
  • Old Spice Aftershave Still On Top
  • Colgate-Palmolive Follows with Skin Bracer, Afta
  • [Table] Leading Aftershave Marketers: Share of Retail Sales in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • Unilever, Gillette, and Benckiser Are Second-Tier in Aftershave
  • Top Aftershave SKUs Skewed to Older Brands
  • [Table] Top Ten Mass-Market Aftershave SKUs: By Dollar Share in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • Brynwood Partners, Colgate-Palmolive Hold Lead in Preshave
  • [Table] Top Five Preshave Marketers: Share of Retail Sales in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • Brynwood Partners, Colgate-Palmolive Dominate List of Top Preshave SKUs
  • [Table] Top Ten Preshave SKUs: By Dollar Share in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • S.C. Johnson Is Tops in Shaving Cream
  • Gillette, Colgate-Palmolive, Pfizer, and Procter & Gamble Are Johnson's Competitors
  • [Table] Top Five Mass-Market Men's Shaving Cream Marketers: Share of Retail Sales in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • S.C. Johnson Holds Five of Ten Top Shaving Cream SKUs
  • [Table] Top Ten Mass-Market Men's Shaving Cream SKUs: By Dollar Share in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • S.C. Johnson, Gillette Gain Shaving Cream Market Share
  • Pfizer, Procter & Gamble Lose Out
  • [Table] Top Five Shaving Cream Marketers: By Estimated Mass-Market Share of Top Brands (1990-1994)
  • Shaving Cream Gains and Losses at a Glance
  • [Table] Top Five Shaving Cream Marketers: By Estimated Market Share of Top Brands (1990 vs. 1994)
• Marketer and Brand Share: Deodorant
  • Estimates Based on Towne-Oller Tracking
  • Procter & Gamble, Gillette Hold Half of Market
  • Colgate-Palmolive, Helene Curtis Are Second-Tier
  • [Table] Leading Deodorant Marketers: By Estimated Mass-Market Share of Top Brands (1991-1994)
  • Market Share: Men's, Women's and Unisex Products
  • [Table] Leading Deodorant Brands: By Estimated Mass-Market Share and Product Orientation (1991-1994)
  • Men's Products Account for Seven of Top 10 SKUs
  • [Table] Top Ten Deodorant SKUs: By Market Share (1994)
• Marketer and Brand Share: Men's Haircare
  • Estimates Based on Towne-Oller Tracking
  • Upjohn's Rogaine Revenues Are Excluded
  • Combe Is the Mass-Market Men's Haircare Leader
  • [Table] Top Ten Men's Haircare Marketers: Share of Retail Sales in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • Combe Shows Its Haircoloring Roots
  • [Table] Leading Men's Haircoloring Marketers: Share of Retail Sales in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • Combe on Top of the Men's Haircoloring Ladder
  • [Table] Top Ten Men's Haircoloring SKUs: By Dollar Share in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • Men Choose Men's Choice—But Not Over Combe
  • [Table] Combe vs. Clairol: By Men's Haircoloring Market Share (1992 vs. 1994)
  • [Graphic] Leading Haircoloring Marketers: By Market Share (1994)
  • But Clairol Is on Top of the Heap
  • Alberto-Culver, Bristol-Myers Control Almost Half of Men's Hairstyling Market
  • [Table] Leading Men's Hairstyling Marketers: Share of Retail Sales in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • Consort, Brylcreem, Dry Look, and Vitalis Are Top-Selling Hairstyling SKUs
  • [Table] Top Ten Men's Hairstyling SKUs: By Dollar Share in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
  • Alberto-Culver Takes Lead in Hairstyling
  • [Table] Top Five Men's Hairstyling Brands: By Rank (1984 vs. 1994)
  • Upjohn's Progaine Leads Among Mass-Market Thinning Hair Products
  • [Table] Top Five Mass-Market Thinning Hair Products: Share of Retail Sales in Chain Drugstores & Food Stores (Year Ending November 1994)
• Marketer and Brand Share: Men's Skincare
  • Data Is Limited for Men's Skincare Category
  • Estée Lauder, Ralph Lauren Are Department Store Leaders
  • Direct-Sale Profits
• Competitive Focus: Men's Fragrance
  • The Mega-Marketers Take Control
  • CK Is One
  • Ralph Lauren
  • Estée Lauder: Aramis and Clinique
  • Benckiser Arrives on the Block
  • The New Old Spice
  • Brut Is Back
• Competitive Focus: Shaving Products
  • S.C. Johnson Maintains the Edge
  • Gillette Thinks Again
  • Colgate-Palmolive, Barbasol, and Value Pricing
  • Changing of the Guard in Mass-Market Shaving Lotion
• Competitive Focus: Deodorant
  • Giants Control Deodorant Category
  • Procter & Gamble's EDLP Pressures Lower End of Category
  • Gillette Ups Ante with Clear Deodorants
  • "Reactive Efforts"
  • Ban Goes Clear
  • SpeedStick Adds Baking Soda
• Competitive Focus: Men's Haircare
  • Haircare Category Keeps Giants at Bay
  • Clairol Challenges Combe's Lead
  • Grecian Formula and Great Day: The Opening Gambits
  • Just for Men and Option: The Second Round
  • Clairol Offers Another Choice
  • Retailers Wait for Men's Hairstyling Push
  • Consort Brings Professional Image to Men's Hairstyling Shelves
  • Familiar Marketers Stake Out Thinning Hair Turf
  • Color Thickener Proves Consumer Interest
• Competitive Focus: Skincare
  • AHA, Sunscreens Ride to the Skincare Rescue
  • Direct-Sale Merchants Form Separate Front
• Marketing and New Product Trends
  • Something for Everyone: New Products, Segmentation Drive Market
  • Mega-Marketers Outfit Department Stores
  • Lightness, Freshness Are New Fragrance Notes
  • Skin Comfort Products: No Pain, All Gain
  • Clear Products, Clear Profits
  • Skincare Products Offer AHA, Sunscreens
  • Nature Knows Best
  • New Product Introductions
  • [Chart] Selected New Product Introductions: Men's Grooming Market (1990-June 1995)
• Packaging Trends
  • Stand-Out Packaging Brings Us the "Tottle"
  • Green Packaging
• Advertising Expenditures
  • Figures Based on LNA Tracking
  • Men's Grooming Advertising Tops $300 Million
  • Procter & Gamble Is Top Men's Grooming Marketer
  • Unilever Ranks Second
  • Benckiser Follows at Third
  • Gillette Is Fourth
  • Colgate-Palmolive Places Fifth
  • [Table] Measured Advertising Expenditures by Leading Marketers: (1992-1994)
  • Benckiser Ranks as Most Aggressive Men's Fragrance Advertiser
  • [Table] Most Heavily Advertised Brands: Men's Fragrance (1992-1994)
  • Gillette, S.C. Johnson Are Top Shaving Advertisers
  • [Table] Most Heavily Advertised Brands: Men's Shaving Products (1992-1994)
  • Secret, Mennen, Sure, and Arrid Are Most Heavily Advertised Deodorant Brands
  • [Table] Most Heavily Advertised Brands: Deodorant Products (1992-1994)
  • Combe Outpaces Clairol in Men's Haircoloring Advertising
  • J.B. Williams, Alberto-Culver Push Hairstyling Products
  • Ralph Lauren, Estée Lauder Promote Men's Skincare Lines
  • Media Trends: Television Garners Three-Fourths of Advertising Dollars
• Advertising Positioning
  • Ads Fall Into Well-Worn Grooves
  • Sex Sells
  • Horizon: A New Age Twist
  • Gillette Series: Something Wild Is Happening
  • Jovan Musk(2): Bottling Sex
  • Sports and Fitness
  • Sporting Events Are Advertising Opportunities
  • Sports Illustrated Is a Common Venue
  • Saving the Males
  • Caesars Man: Wear It and Conquer
  • Jil Sander's Feeling Man
  • Crests and Cocktail Parties
  • Nature Knows Best
  • Freedom and Adventure: Calvin Klein's Escape
  • Free Spirits and True Colours
  • Science and High Tech
  • Clinique Turnaround Lotion: The Product as Hero
  • Procter & Gamble Proves It
  • Haircoloring Ads Focus on Results
  • Old Spice: Back to the Classics
  • Celebrity Endorsements: Jimmy Connors and James Brown
  • Humor: Right Guard Discovers Charles Barkley
  • Selling to the Female Purchaser
  • Examples of Advertising
• Consumer Promotions
  • Gift Sets
  • Gift-With-Purchase Promotions
  • The Feminization of Free Gifts
  • [Chart] Sample Fragrance Gift-With-Purchase Offers: Men's Grooming Market (1994-1995)
  • Samples
  • Bonus Bottle and "Two-for-One" Offers
  • Coupons
  • Mail-In Offers
  • [Chart] Sample Mail-In Offers: Men's Grooming Market (1994-1995)
  • Examples of Consumer Promotions
• Trade Promotions and Advertising
  • Trade Advertising: Hard Copy
  • Examples of Trade Advertisements

IV. Distribution and Retail

• Distribution Channels and Trends
  • Three Distribution Channels
  • Prestige Outlets
  • Mass Outlets
  • Alternative Channels
  • The Prestige/Mass-Market Tension
  • Prestige Marketers Reduce Doors
  • Diversion and the Gray Market
  • Cosmair and Givenchy Pioneer Anti-Diversion Tactics
  • Mass Merchandisers Gain Clout
  • "Self-Warehousing" Diminishes Role of Distributors
• At the Retail Level: Prestige Products
  • Department Stores Are Main Venue
  • Men's Grooming Sections Come of Age
  • Products Grouped by Marketer/Brand
  • Product Display
  • Product Selection
  • Prices
  • [Table] Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Prices: Selected Prestige Men's Grooming Products (1994-1995)
  • Falling Prices: Fine Fragrance in Mass Outlets
• At the Retail Level: Mass-Market Products
  • Drugstores Hold On to Lead
  • Food Stores Follow in Sales
  • Mass Merchandisers Gain Market Share
  • Prices and Margins
  • "Loss Leaders" Are a Common Strategy
  • Cergro Reports Sample Prices and Margins
  • The Mass-Market Men's Grooming Section
  • Shelf-Space Allotment
  • Product Selection
  • Product Display
  • Security: The Fly in the Ointment
• Alternative Channels
  • Newer Methods Keep Pressure on Traditional Outlets

V. The Consumer

• Consumer Use: Fragrance
  • Data Derived from Simmons Market Research Bureau
  • Over One-Third of Adult Males Use Fragrance
  • Heavy Users Account for Two-Fifths of Fragrance Use
  • [Graphic] Frequency of Fragrance Use (Weekly)
  • User Profile Includes Younger, Single, and African-American Men
  • Heavy Users Are Relatively Downscale
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Use of Fragrance
  • Resisters
  • Old Spice Is Tops Among Fragrance/Aftershave Brands
  • [Table] Use or Gift Purchase by Brand: Men's Fragrance/Aftershave
  • Obsession Leads Among Fine Fragrances/Aftershaves
  • Purchaser Profiles Are Fairly Constant Among Fine Fragrance/Aftershave Brands
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Purchase of Fine Fragrance/Aftershave: By Brand
  • Purchaser Profiles Are Highly Consistent Among Mass-Market Fragrances/Aftershaves
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Purchase of Mass-Market Fragrance/Aftershave: By Brand
• Consumer Use: Shaving Products
  • Over One-Half of Adult Males Use Aftershave
  • Medium Users Account for Two-Fifths of Use
  • [Graphic] Frequency of Aftershave (Weekly)
  • Heavy Users of Aftershave Show Blue-Collar Profile
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Use of Aftershave
  • Resisters
  • Skin Bracer Leads Among "Drugstore" Aftershaves
  • [Table] Use or Gift Purchase by Brand: Men's Aftershave
  • Afta's Customer Base Is Relatively Diverse
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Purchase of
  • Almost Two-Thirds of Adult Males Use Shaving Cream
  • Heavy Users Account for Two-Thirds of Use
  • [Graphic] Frequency of Shaving Cream Use (Weekly)
  • Established Professionals Are Heavy Users
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Use of Shaving Cream
  • Resisters
  • Gillette Shaving Cream Has Broadest Consumer Base
  • [Table] Use by Brand: Shaving Cream
  • Heavy Cross-Usage Among Brands
  • Brand Profiles Vary Widely
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Use of Shaving Cream: By Brand
• Consumer Use: Deodorant
  • Over Nine in Ten Adult Males Use Deodorant
  • Heavy Users Account for Half of Use
  • [Graphic] Frequency of Deodorant Use (Weekly)
  • African-American Men Are Heavy Users
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Heavy Use of Deodorant
  • Mennen Leads Among Deodorant Brands
  • Cross-Usage Among Brands Is Extremely High
  • [Table] Use by Brand: Deodorant
  • Brand Profiles Cover the Demographic Spectrum
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Use Deodorant: By Brand
• Consumer Use: Haircare Products
  • Data Not Restricted to Men's Products
  • Three in Ten Adult Males Use Hairspray
  • Heavy Users Account for Almost One-Half of Use
  • [Graphic] Frequency of Hairspray Use (Weekly)
  • Male Hairspray User Tends to Be Provincial
  • Heavy Users Are More Diverse
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Use of Hairspray
  • Suave, Aqua-Net are Tops Among Hairspray Brands
  • [Table] Use by Brand: Hairspray
  • Three in Ten Adult Males Use Other Hairstyling Products
  • Heavy Users Account for Three-Fifths of Use
  • [Graphic] Frequency of Use: Other Hairstyling Products (Weekly)
  • Age Is Dividing Line Between Hairspray/Other Hairstyling Product Users
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Use of Other Hairstyling Products
  • Paul Mitchell Leads Among Brands
  • [Table] Use by Brand: Other Hairstyling Products
  • One in Ten Adult Males Use Haircoloring
  • Heavy Users Account for Four-Fifths of Use
  • [Graphic] Frequency of Haircoloring Use (Weekly)
  • Haircoloring Users Tend to Be Downscale
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Use of Haircoloring
  • Clairol Leads Among Haircoloring Marketers
  • [Table] Use by Brand: Haircoloring
  • Thinning Hair Product Users Fall into Two Age Brackets
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Use of Thinning Hair Products
• Consumer Use: Skincare Products
  • Data Not Restricted to Men's Products
  • One-Half of Adult Males Use Hand and Body Lotion
  • Heavy Users Account for Almost One-Half of Use
  • [Graphic] Frequency of Hand and Body Lotion Use (Weekly)
  • Demographics Suggest Utilitarian Use
  • [Chart] Demographic Characteristics Favoring Use of Hand and Body Lotion
  • Vaseline Is Tops Among Hand and Body Lotions
  • [Table] Use by Brand: Hand and Body Lotion

Appendix I: Company Profiles

• Benckiser
  • From Commodity Chemicals to Consumer Products
  • A New York State of Mind
• Bristol-Myers Squibb
  • Late 1980s Merger Creates Pharmaceutical Giant
• Colgate-Palmolive
  • From Candles to Central Europe
• Cosmair/L'Oréal
  • Global Leader in Cosmetics and Fragrances
  • Cosmetics Account for Four-Fifths of Revenues
  • Global Structure Recentralized
• Estée Lauder
  • New Niches and Foreign Nations
• Gillette
  • Disposable Razors and Perennial Profits
• Procter & Gamble
  • Back to the Soaps?
• Unilever
  • A London/Rotterdam Partnership
  • The Global Leader in Toiletries

Appendix II: Examples of Consumer Trade Advertising and Promotions

Appendix III: Adresses of Selected Marketers