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International Skin Care Market
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Feb 1, 1996
199 Pages - Pub ID: LA407
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- Executive Summary
The Products
- New Active Ingredients
- Regulatory Involvement
- Concentration and pH Level Both Important
- Skincare Categorization Varies by Country
The Market
- International Market of $18.7 Billion in 1995
- A $27 Billion Market by 2000
- [Table] Size of the International Skincare
- Market: By Major Region (1991-2000):
- Western Europe, Japan, and Other
- Technological and Geopolitical Factors Provide Optimism
The Marketers
- Thousands of Marketers but a Few Dominate
- Prestige, Mass, and Local Market Segments
- L'Oréal Market Leader in Europe
- Four Brands Control European Market
- Value for Money Major Selling Point
- Line Extensions Offer a Safer New Product Direction
- Antiaging Continues as Most Important New Product Trend
- Much Skincare Advertising Includes Scientific-Sounding Copy
Distribution and Retail
- Distribution Mostly Local in Nature
- Manufacturers Control Distribution in Japan
- Skincare Outlets Vary by Country
The Consumer
- Consumer Attitudes Toward Skincare Most Important
- The Products
Scope of the Report
Product Overview
- Historical Background
- The Rise of Active Products
- Skin Retexturization
- Sunscreen
- Cell Renewal
- The Triumph of Active Products
- Fruit Acids (AHAs)
- Plenty of New Ingredients in the Wings
- The Rise of "Cosmeceuticals"
- AHAs and Skin Irritation
- Vitamin A and Photosensitivity
- Skin Anatomy
- Four Skin Types
- Oily Skin
- Dry Skin
- Balanced or Normal Skin
- Combination Skin
- Ultraviolet Light Is a Serious Threat
Manufacturing
- Skincare Products Are Mixtures
- Basic Ingredients
- Moisturizers
- Cleansers
- Toners
- Antiagers
- Specialty Ingredients
- Vitamins
- Hypoallergenic Products
- Natural Acids
- Liposomes and Other Penetrators
- Sunscreens
- Packaging Expresses Positioning
Product Categories
- Product Forms
- Part of Body Categories
- Functional Categories
- Marketing Categories
- National Categories
- French Categories
- German Categories
- Italy's Categories Have Been Revised
- Spanish Categories
- British Categories
- National Categories Vary by Specificity
- [Chart] Skincare Product Categories in Specific
- European Markets, 1995: Spain, United Kingdom,
- Germany, France, and Italy
Regulatory Milieu
- Regulation of Skin Products Is Generally Light
- European Regulation Becoming Centralized
- Europe Regulates Cosmetics Labels
- Advertising Regulation Is a Local Responsibility
- Europe Strictly Regulates Coloring Agents for Facial Skincare
- Europe Has Specific Restrictions for Some Substances
- Retin-A Listed as Prescription-Only Drug
- Cosmeceuticals Cause Regulatory Nervousness
- European Customs Posts Are Shutting Down
- VAT Agreements Key to Open Borders
- [Table] Sample VAT Transactions, 1995 (dollars)
- VAT Rates Are Not Perfectly Uniform
- [Table] VAT Rates of EU Member Countries,
- 1995 (percent): Belgium, Denmark, France,
- Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg,
- Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, and United Kingdom
- Japan's Regulations Can Be Strict
- Each Country Has Its Own Rules
- Absence of Regulation Can Complicate Market
- The Market
Market Size and Growth
- International Retail Sales Approach $19 Billion in 1995
- [Table] Retail Sales and Growth of World
- Skincare Market, 1991-1995: Western Europe, Japan, and Other
- International Data Given in Real Time Dollar Values
- [Table] Selected International Currency
- Values, 1991-1995 (Local Units per U.S.
- Dollars): France, Germany, Italy, Spain,
- United Kingdom and Japan
Size and Growth of the Market in Western Europe
- Retail Sales in Western Europe Reached $9.7 Billion in 1995
- [Table] Retail Sales and Growth of Western
- European Skincare Market, 1991-1995
- (retail dollars): France, Germany, Italy, Spain, U.K. and Others
- 1995's Booming French Market Reaches $2.5 Billion
- [Table] Retail Sales and Growth of French
- Skincare Market, 1991-1995 (in billions of
- French francs and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, and All
- German Market Hits $2.4 Billion in 1995
- [Table] Retail Sales and Growth of German
- Skincare Market, 1991-1995 (in billions of
- deutshe marks and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, and All
- 1995 Retail Market in Italy Approaches $1.8 Billion
- [Table] Retail Sales and Growth of Italian
- Skincare Market, 1991-1995 (in billions of
- Italian lire and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, and All
- Spanish Skincare Market Retail Sales at $480 Million
- [Table] Retail Sales and Growth of Spanish
- Skincare Market, 1991-1995 (in billions of
- pesetas and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, and All
- 1995 British Skincare Market Sales Total $590 Million
- [Table] Retail Sales and Growth of British
- Skincare Market, 1991-1995 (in billions of
- pounds and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, and All
- Other Parts of Western Europe Enjoy $2 Billion in Retail Sales
Size and Growth of Other Markets
- Other Markets Have Retail Sales of Almost $9 Billion in 1995
- Japanese Market Exceeds $2 Billion in 1995
- [Table] Retail Sales and Growth of the Japanese
- Skincare Market, 1991-1995 (in millions of
- Japanese yen and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, Hand, and All
- Rest of World's Retail Sales Estimated at $6.7 Billion in 1995
- [Table] Retail Sales and Growth of Other
- Skincare Markets, 1991-1995 (in millions
- of U.S. dollars): Africa, Americas and the
- Caribbean, Asia, Central and Eastern Europe, and Pacific
Factors in Market Growth
- High-Tech Products Give Market Great Credibility
- Concern Over Ozone and the Sun Bring Growth
- Growing Power of Women Worldwide Increases Sales
- Male Consumers Provide Only Modest Growth
- Population Changes Are Little Help
- Number of European Women Ages 20 to 59 Is in Decline
- [Table] Population Changes in Western Europe,
- 1990, 1995, and 2000 (persons); Country: France,
- Germany, Italy, Spain, and the United Kingdom;
- Age Group: 0-19, Women 20-59, Men 20-59, and 60+
- World Population Growing Briskly
- [Table] World Population Changes: 1990, 1995,
- and 2000: Africa, Latin America, Canada, Asia,
- Oceana, and Europe, USA, etc.
- Size of Japanese Consumer Population Is Unchanging
- Cultural Attitude Is a Critical Factor in Growth
- [Table] Spending Per Capita on Skincare
- in Major International Markets, 1995 (dollars):
- France, Germany, Italy, Spain, United Kingdom, and Japan
- Flat Global Economy Not Expected to Be Much of a Damper
- Lowering Trade Barriers Should Help
- Currency Changes Are an Unpredictable Factor
Projected Market Growth
- International Market Will Surpass $27 Billion in 2000
- [Table] Projected Retail Sales and Growth of
- World Skincare Market, 1995-2000: Western
- Europe, Japan, and Other
- Western Europe's Skincare Market Projected
- to Approach $13.9 Billion by 2000
- [Table] Projected Retail Sales and Growth of
- Western European Skincare Market, 1996-2000
- (retail dollars): France, Germany, Italy, Spain, U.K. and Others
- French Market to Approach $3.5 Billion
- [Table] Projected Retail Sales and Growth of
- French Skincare Market, 1995-2000 (in billions
- of French francs and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, and All
- German Market Will Exceed $2.7 Billion
- [Table] Projected Retail Sales and Growth of
- German Skincare Market, 1995-2000 (in billions
- of deutshe marks and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, and All
- Italian Market Should Boom, to Almost $3 Billion
- [Table] Projected Retail Sales and Growth of
- Italian Skincare Market, 1995-2000 (in billions
- of Italian lire and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, and All
- Spanish Market Will Grow to $710 Million
- [Table] Projected Retail Sales and Growth of
- Spanish Skincare Market, 1995-2000 (in billions
- of pesetas and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, and All
- British Market to Reach Almost $1 Billion
- [Table] Projected Retail Sales and Growth of
- British Skincare Market, 1995-2000 (in billions
- of pounds and U.S. dollars): Face, Body, and All
- Other Markets Projected to Reach $13.5 Billion in 2000
- Japanese Market Expected to Reach $2.8 Billion
- [Table] Projected Retail Sales and Growth of
- the Japanese Skincare Market, 1995-2000
- (in millions of Japanese yen and U.S. dollars):
- Face, Body, Hand, and All
- Best of the World Projected to Approach $11 Billion
- [Table] Projected Retail Sales and Growth of
- Other Skincare Markets, 1995-2000 (in millions
- of U.S. dollars): Africa, Americas and the
- Caribbean, Asia, Central and Eastern Europe, and Pacific
Market Composition: By Major Geographic Area
- Western Europe Accounts for Over Half
- of International Skincare Sales
- [Graphic] Geographic Composition of
- International Skincare Market, 1995
- (percent): Western Europe, Asia, Japan,
- Americas, Rest of Europe, Pacific, Africa
- Japan Alone Constitutes Almost 12% of Market
- Rest of Asia Provides 19% of Market
- Americas Outside United States Account for 7% of Skincare Sales
- Rest of Europe Contributes 5% of Market
- Pacific Nations Bring Almost 3% of Market Sales
- Small African Market Is Only 1.5% of Total Pie
Market Composition: By Product
- Facial Products Dominate European Market
- [Graphic] Facial Care Versus Body Care
- for France, Germany, Italy, Spain, and
- the United Kingdom, 1995 (percent)
- Creams & Specific Treatments Hold Half of French Mass Market
- Antiaging Products and Moisturizers
- Dominate Germany's Facial Market
- [Graphic] Product Composition of German
- Skincare Market, 1995 (percent): Night
- Creams and Antiaging, Day Creams and
- Moisturizers, Toners, Cleansing Milks,
- Facial Washes, Masks and Exfoliants
- Half of Italy's Facial Skincare Market Devoted
- to Moisturizers and Antiaging Treatments
- Spanish Mass Market Dominated by Various Moisturizers
- [Graphic] Composition of Spanish Skincare
- Market, 1995 (percent): Day Creams,
- Cleansers, Specific Treatments, Night
- Creams, Antiwrinkle Creams, Toners,
- Exfoliants and Masks, Eye Makeup Removers
- British Skincare Favors Moisturizers
- [Graphic] Composition of British Skincare
- Market, 1995 (percent): Moisturizers,
- Cleansers, General Purpose, Toners
Market Composition: By Retail Outlet
- Retail Data Are Scarce
- Select Distribution Still King in French Market
- Perfumeries Bring Half of Italy's Retail Volume in Skincare
- The Marketers
The Marketers
- A Few Companies Dominate Among Thousands
- International Market Divides Into Three
- Segments: Prestige, Mass, and Local
- Ethnic Marketers Find International Segment
- Environmentally Sensitive Products Form Another Segment
- Men and Children Provide Further Segments
- Listings Divide Marketers into Three Geographic Groups
- [Chart] Global Skincare Marketers and
- Their Brands, 1995: Avon, Beiersdorf,
- Elf Sanofi, Estee Lauder, Hazel Bishop
- International, Helena Rubinstein, Kanebo,
- Kao, L'Oréal, Liz Claiborne, LVMH,
- Procter & Gamble, Revlon, Shiseido, Unilever
- [Chart] Skincare Marketers Chiefly Visible in Europe, 1995
- [Chart] Skincare Marketers Chiefly Visible
- in Other Parts of the World, 1995: Japan,
- Pacific Ocean, Africa and the Caribbean
Marketer Shares
- Global Data Are Limited
- L'Oréal Dominates Top European Markets
- [Table] Top Ten Marketers in Western
- Europe's Leading Markets, 1995
- Beiersdorf Holds Second Spot
- Unilever in Third Place
- Clarins Paris Holds Fourth Place
- Procter & Gamble on Fifth Rung
- Estee Lauder in Sixth Position
- Johnson & Johnson Is in Seventh Place
- Henkel Ranks Eighth
- LVMH Has Ninth Slot
- Benckiser in Tenth Place
Brand Shares
- International Brands Are a Tangle
- Line Extensions Make Brands Even More Confusing
- National Markets Allow Different Brands to Lead
- Europe's Mass Market Is Dominated by Four Brands
- Nivea Visage Leads Europe's Brands
- Plenitude Is a Strong Second Brand
- Oil of Olay/Ulay/Olaz Holds Third Place
- Pond's Is in Fourth Place
Competitive Situation
- Value Sets the Competitive Pace
- International Sales Add New Dimension to Competition
- Mass Market Competition in Europe Demands
- High-Tech Quality at an Everyday Price
- Beiersdorf Maximizes Quality While Minimizing Price
- Procter & Gamble Competes with Many Brand Names
- L'Oréal Competes on Every Level
- Prestige Competition Stresses Unrivaled Quality
- Developing World Competition Adds a Few Twists
Marketing Trends
- New, Yet Trustworthy, Is Chief Marketing Appeal
- Fragrance Names Give Products Instant Cachet
- Bath Products Extending into Skincare
- Move Toward Market Middle
- Specialization and Generalization Produce Countertrends
- Mixer Packaging Emphasizes New Technology
Product Trends
- Antiaging Appears to Be the Trend for the Decade
- Protection Growing
- AHAs Not Used Only in Antiaging
- Skin Damage from Lifestyle
- Lip Balms Growing More Sophisticated
- Anticellulite
- Sun Protection Becoming More Important
- Low-Tech Nature Comes On Strong in Japan
- [Chart] Selected New Skincare Products, 1995
Advertising Expenditures
- National Borders Make Advertising Expensive
- [Table] Skincare Advertising Expenditures
- in Western Europe, 1995: Germany, France,
- Italy, Spain, and United Kingdom
- Germany Is Leader in Advertising
- France Is Second Largest Advertiser
- Italy Holds a Distant Third
- Spain Is in Fourth Place
- United Kingdom Data Are Uncertain
Advertising Positioning
- International Market Encourages International Ads
- Scientific Information Dominates Advertising Tones
- Even Photo Ads Include Scientific Touch
- Reaction Against Science Also Visible
- Beauty Is Not Forgotten
- Computer Graphic versus Nature
- Natural Ingredients Look Good
- Samples Becoming Popular
- Distribution and Retail
Distribution
- Trading Blocs Have Become Critical to International Distribution
- The Abolition of Tariffs between Member States
- Equality of Trade Rights between Member States
- Monetary Harmony between Member States
- European Union Is the Most Unified Bloc
- NAFTA Makes Distribution to Canada and Mexico Easier
- Australia and New Zealand Form a Bloc
- ASEAN Bloc Offers Access to Many Asian Countries
- Third World Has Many Smaller Blocs
- [Graphic] Major Trading Blocs
- Japan Is Its Own Market
- Retailers Prefer Traditional Suppliers
- Purchasing Alliances Are Growing
- European Distributorships Subject to Local Laws
- French Law Defends Distributors
- Germans Sometimes Accept American Law
- Italian Law Is Silent About Distributorships
- Spanish Law Has Been Rewritten
- United Kingdom Lets Agents Define Themselves
- Japanese Distribution Controlled by Manufacturers
- Large Retailers Are Leading a Revolution of Sorts
- Direct Mail Circumvents Traditional Distribution in Japan
- Personal Contact Sales Popular in Much of Third World
Retail
- Retailers Do Not Always Match Marketers' Design
- Every Country Establishes Some Form of Prestigious Store
- France's Select Outlets Have Largest Dollar Volume
- Germany Has Two Traditions
- Italy Favors Cosmetic Shops
- Small Stores Abound in Spain
- United Kingdom Has Few Select Outlets
- Prestige Displays Emphasize Advice and Cosmetics
- In Some Countries Pharmacies Carry Separate Products
- Mass Outlets Are Growing
- Importance of Supermarkets Rising
- Self-Service Dominates Mass Display
- Japanese Retail Structure Is Very Different
- Service-Intensive Stores Still Dominate
- Self-Service Outlets Are Growing
- Nonstore Channels Are Strong in Japan
- The Consumer
The Consumer
- Consumers of Different Nations Vary Widely
- Women's Usage Single Most Important Factor in Shaping Market
- [Table] Skincare Users among European
- Women Ages 20-59, 1995 (persons):
- Germany, France, United Kingdom, Italy, Spain
- Breakthrough Comes When Women No
- Longer See Skincare As A Luxury
- Aging Population Is Second Critical Issue
- Consumers in Different Regions Have
- Widely Differing Degrees of Readiness
- to Develop a Mass Skincare Market
- [Graphic] Ready For Mass Market
- [Table] Consumer Characteristics by Country,
- 1994: Population, Gross Domestic Product
- (U.S. $), and Mass Market Potential
- European Consumers Are Most Ready for a Mass Market
- Many Pacific Consumers Look Like Europeans
- The Americas Are Divided
- Caribbean Is Widely Varied
- Middle East Attitudes Resist Mass Market
- Former USSR Members Are Poor but Eager
- Some Asian Countries Look Very Promising
- Africa Remains Last in Consumerism
- Indian Ocean Islands Are Small and Remote
- Price-Consciousness Is Down Side of Breakthrough
- Brand Loyalty Is Not Widespread
- Skin Lighteners Are Sought Outside Europe
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Appendix I: Leading Skincare Manufacturers
Avon Products
- Net Sales Over $4 Billion
- Firm Concentrates on Direct Sales
- Cosmetics Sales Bring Almost Two-Thirds of Business
- Global Operations Are Still Expanding
Beiersdorf AG
- Worldwide Sales Surpass $3 Billion
- Just Over Half of the Sales come From Cosmetics
- Germany and Europe Bring Almost Three-Quarters of Sales
Clarins SA
- Sales Reach Almost $400 Million
- Skincare Is Its Largest Seller
- France Provides Its Greatest Market
Estee Lauder
- Company Goes Public with Sales of Almost $3 Billion
- Five Major Divisions
- New International Markets
Johnson & Johnson
- Sales Reached $15.7 Billion in 1994
- World's Largest Manufacturer of Healthcare Products
- Three Product Categories
- Company Structure and Major Brands
L'Oréal S.A.
- Worldwide Sales Were $8.6 Billion
- Over 80% of Sales Comes From Cosmetics
- Europe Is Source of Most Sales
- Company's Structure Is Being Simplified
Procter & Gamble Company
- Sales Top $33 Billion in Fiscal Year 1995
- Four Categories
- Company Stance: Cash and Clout
- New Products
- Mergers and Acquisitions
- Major Brands
Shiseido Company Limited
- Worldwide Sales Reach $5.4 Billion
- Cosmetics and Toiletries Account for Most of Sales
- Japan Generates Most Sales
Unilever Plc and Unilever N.V.
- Sales of $45.4 Billion in 1994
- An Unusual Structure
- Operations in 75 Countries
- Principal Product Areas: Food, Detergents,
- Personal Products, and Specialty Chemicals
Appendix II: Examples of Advertising
Appendix III: Addresses of Selected Marketers
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