II The Overall Market

• Introduction
  • Defining “Ethnic”
  • Overlap Between Ethnic and General HBC Markets
  • Three Ethnic HBC Categories: Hair Care, Cosmetics, Skin Care
  • Mass, Prestige, and “Pop Prestige” Covered
  • Ethnic Men’s HBC Covered Here and in Separate Report
  • Clarification of Other Terms
  • Methodology
  
  
• A Brief History
• Overall Market Size and Composition
  • Market Hovers Around $1.5 Billion Mark
  • Ethnic Purchasing in General-Market Adds Muscle
  • Radically Different Results, Depending on Your Your Involvement...
  • Share by Category
  • Outlet Share
  
  
• Factors in Future Growth
  • Ethnic Population Sectors Still Growing
    • Hispanics Now Most Numerous Minority
    • But African Americans Are Key Target
    • Asian-American Audience Growing Rapidly
    
    
  • Ethnic Pride + Assimilation = Urban Style
  • Minorities’ Major Spending Power
  • Non-Specialized Brands to Increase Offerings for Ethnics
  • From Zero to Sixty: Brands for Hispanics
  • Launching in Mass
  • The Commodity Nature of HBC
  • Retailers Scouting Abroad for Brands of Ethnic Interest
  • Potential in Youth and Men’s Audiences
  
  
• Projected Sales
  • Ethnic HBC to Hit $1.7 Billion in 2008
  
  
• Consumer Advertising Expenditures
• Trade Shows

III The Hair Care Category

• The Products
  • Scope of Hair Care Category
  • A Word About African-American Hair
  • ...And About Hispanic and Asian Hair
  • Perms, Straightened Hair, Dreads Require Use of a Range of Products
  • Seven Ethnic Hair Care Segments
    • Relaxers/Home Perms
    • Treatments
    • Hair Color
    • Styling Products
    • Shampoo and Conditioner
    • Men’s Styling Products
    • Children’s Products
    • Wigs
    
    
  • The Harsh and the Gentle
  
  
• Hair Category Size and Growth
  • Hair Category Sinks to $1 Billion Mark in 2003
  • Ethnic Purchasing in General-Market Adds Muscle
  • Here, Too, Fortunes Depended on Market Stances
  • Share of Sales by Product Segment
  • Outlet Share
  • Regionality of Relaxer/Home Perm Sales
  
  
• Factors in Future Growth
  • General-Market Activity Favoring Non-Ethnic- Specific Brands
  • Gentler Formulations Nudging Ethnics Over to Prestige, Natural Channels
  • More Hairstyles and Colors Accepted in Daily Life
  • Watch for the Explosion: Hispanic Brands Hitting Mass
  • Retailers Importing Foreign Brands
  • Kids’ Sectors Offer Opportunity
  • Men Are Worthy of Attention
  
  
• Projected Sales
  • Ethnic Hair Category to Struggle to $1.1 Billion by 2008
  
  
• The Marketers
  • Field of Ethnic-Specific Hair Care Marketers Remains Narrow
  • Degrees of Specialization
  • Both Public and Private Companies
  • Consolidation
  • Table of Ethnic Hair Care Marketers and Brands
  
  
• Market Share
  • A Special Note on Hair Care Data
  • L’Oreal, Alberto-Culver Are Relaxer Leaders
  • Other Segments...
  
  
• Product Trends
• Consumer Advertising Expenditure
• Consumer Advertising Positioning
• Consumer Promotions

IV The Cosmetics Category

• The Products
  • Scope of Color Cosmetics Category
  • Different Chemistry Required for Ethnic Cosmetics
  • Ms. Walden, Ms. Roberts, Johnson Publishing Are Ethnic Cosmetics Pioneers
  • Asians Accommodated by a Very Few Marketers
  • Hispanics’ Cosmetic Needs Historically Neglected
  • Four Ethnic Cosmetics Segments: Face, Lip, Eye, Nail
  • Facial Makeup
    • Foundation
    • Face Powder
    • Blusher
    • Concealer/Coverup
    
    
  • Lip Color
  • Eye Makeup
    • Shadow
    • Eyeliner/Eyebrow Pencils
    • Mascara
    
    
  • Nail Care
  • FDA Oversight
  
  
• Cosmetics Category Size and Growth
  • Ethnic Cosmetics Push on to $367 Million
  • Ethnic Purchasing in General-Market Adds $__
  • Cosmetics Have Been Best Ethnic Performers
  • Share by Product Segment
  • Outlet Share
  
  
• Factors in Future Growth
  • Major-Player Activities Stimulating Category
  • More Cosmetics for Hispanics, Asians, Others
  • Cosmeceutical Features a Plus
  • Ethnic Youth Eager to Use Cosmetics
  
  
• Projected Sales
  • Ethnic Cosmetics to Be Valued at $492 Million in 2008
  
  
• The Marketers
  • Cosmetics Marketers the Smallest Ethnic-Specific Cadre
  • Major Marketers Getting More Involved
  • Company Types
  • Table of Marketers and Brands
  
  
• Marketer Rankings
• Product Trends
• Consumer Advertising Expenditure
• Consumer Advertising Positioning
• Consumer Promotions

• The Products
  • Scope of Ethnic Skin Care Category
  • Two Segments: Basic Skincare and Shaving Products
  • African Americans’ Special Skin Care Problems
    • Ashiness
    • Impetigo
    • Keloid
    • Oiliness
    • Melanin Imbalances
    • Razor Bumps
    
    
  • Hispanic Skin Care Needs Rarely Addressed
  • Asians’ “Delicacy” of Skin
  • Three Key Ingredients
    • AHAs
    • Butters
    • Hydroquinone
    
    
  • Skin Care Products Regulated by FDA
  
  
• Skin Care Category Size and Growth
  • Ethnic Skin Care Edges Up to $118 Million in 2003
  • General Skin Care Products Hold Back Ethnic- Specific Versions
  • Share of Sales by Product Segment
  • Outlet Share
  
  
• Factors in Future Growth
  • Marketers Opting for Broader Stances Than Ethnic- Specific
  • Assortment: Who Needs Ethnic Skin Care, Anyway?
  • New Lines for Hispanic and Asians Now Debuting
  • Retailers Look Abroad for Ethnic-Friendly Brands
  • Potential in Ethnic Male Audience
  • ...But Less Skin Care Potential in Kid Audience
  
  
• Projected Sales
  • Ethnic Skin Care to Brush $150 Million by 2008
  
  
• The Marketers
  • A Handful of Ethnic Skin Care Leaders
  • Public and Private, But Mostly Specialists
  • Table of Ethnic Skin Care Marketers and Their
  • Brands
  
  
• Marketer and Brand Share
• Product Trends
• Consumer Advertising Expenditure
• Consumer Advertising Positioning
• Consumer Promotions

• Pros and Cons of a Virtual Commodity Market
• Ethnic-Specific Marketers Give Up Sales to Generalists
• The Upshot of All That Consolidation
• The Coming Wave of Hispanic-Specific Brands
• Retailers Importing Brands from Latin America, Europe...
• The Battlefield by Category
  • Hair Care
  • Cosmetics
  • Skin Care
  
  
• Competitive Profiles
  • Alberto-Culver/Pro-Line
  • Colomer USA
  • Estee Lauder
  • [M.A.C. brand]
  • Johnson Publishing
  • L’Oreal/Soft Sheen Carson
  • Luster Products
  • Procter & Gamble
  • J. Strickland
  • Wella AG
  
  
• Marketers to Watch
  • BioCosmetics Research Labs
  • Dr. Bronner
  • Ella Cosmetics
  • Tupperware Corp.
  
  VII Distribution and Retail
  
  • Range of Ethnic HBC Outlets Broadened
  • Margins
  • Store Product Mixes Improved in Anticipation of Hispanic Items
  • But Many Mixes Still Do Not Meet Ethnics’ Needs
  • Retail Focus: Alberto-Culver/Sally Beauty
  • Retail Focus: M.A.C.

VII The Consumer

VIII Trends and Opportunities

Appendix: Addresses of Selected Marketers